For the uninitiated, horseradish can be intimidating. “Be careful!” and “It’s strong!” are among the warnings giving to those ingesting it for the first time. Fresh horseradish, which is a member of the mustard family, is a root known for its pungency, or to put it more bluntly, its ability to clear your sinuses. But don’t let its assertiveness scare you away! Used in moderation, it can add heat and flair to many dishes.
Fresh horseradish is both hotter and spicier than bottled prepared horseradish, which is pickled in vinegar, so if a recipe calls for prepared horseradish, use half the amount of fresh. When selecting, look for light brown, hard roots; avoid those that are green, moldy or spongy. Wrap in a damp paper towel, place inside a plastic bag and store in your crisper drawer for up to three weeks.
When ready to use, scrub the root, peel and cut only as much as you need. Use a microplane zester or box grater for the finest grate.
Fresh horseradish is typically grated and mixed into sauces, dressings or creams that can accompany a variety of salads, sandwiches, cooked meats and baked vegetables. It can also be grated and stirred directly into soups, stews and egg dishes. Just remember that a little bit goes a long way, so taste as you go. Its natural heat acts as a delicious counterpoint to rich and creamy dishes, so if it has heavy cream, cheese, mayonnaise or sour cream, horseradish will like it. It’s also a natural companion to smoked seafood, like mackerel and trout; grilled meats like lamb and steak; sturdy winter greens like collards and mustard greens, and earthy root vegetables like beets and turnips.
Here are three ways to heat up your winter meals with fresh horseradish:
1. Condiments: Stir a little grated fresh horseradish into bottled ketchup, mustard or mayo for a fast and tasty upgrade.
2. Slaw: Make a slaw of grated fresh cabbage, carrots, celery and apples. Make a creamy dressing of mayonnaise, horseradish, lemon juice, white vinegar, sugar, salt and black pepper. Mix and top with sunflower seeds and dried cherries.
3. Gratins: Add grated fresh horseradish to any variety of creamy gratin recipes such as potato, butternut squash, cauliflower or winter greens.
Russo is a San Diego freelance food writer and cookbook author.
Open-Faced Smoked Trout, Apple and Horseradish Cream Sandwiches
Remember, fresh horseradish is potent, so start with a small amount and taste as you go. If you don’t have crème fraiche (which is a like a cross between sour cream and yogurt), then simply substitute sour cream or yogurt, or mix a little of the two. This sandwich works well with other smoked fish, such as salmon and mackerel.
Makes 2
2 thick slices of bread such as rye, whole grain or country wheat
Butter for bread
2 tablespoons crème fraiche
1/2 to 1 teaspoon spicy brown mustard
A couple of pinches of finely grated fresh horseradish, or as much as desired
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 sweet-tart apple, such as Honeycrisp or Pink Lady, sliced paper thin
6 to 8 ounces canned smoked trout in oil, drained
1/2 to 1 tablespoon fresh chives, finely chopped
Fresh lemon, optional
Butter and lightly toast the bread. In a small bowl, mix the crème fraiche, mustard, horseradish, salt and black pepper. Add apple slices to toasted bread, top with trout and a dollop of horseradish crème. Sprinkle chives on top and serve with lemon wedges.
